1. Out of 10 points, deduct 1 point for every foot your work triangle is above 22 feet (your work triangle is the number of feet you walk from your fridge to your stove to your sink and back to your fridge). Deduct 1 point for every foot your work triangle is less than 10 feet.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
2. Out of 10 points, deduct 2 points each if you have less than 12" of counter space the left side of the sink, the right side of the sink, the left side of the stove and the right side of the stove. Deduct 2 points if you have less than 15" of counter space on the handle-side of your fridge.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
3. Out of 10 points, deduct 5 points if one side of your sink is within 8" of a wall. Deduct another 5 points if your stove is within 8" of a wall.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
4. Out of 10 points, deduct 6 points if your dishwasher is located more 1 step away the sink. Deduct another 2 points each if your dishes, glasses or cutlery are stored more than 5 feet away from the dishwasher.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
5. Out of 10 points, deduct 3 points for every inch your sink is shallower than 9".
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
6. Out of 10 points, deduct 1 point for every item stored on your counter that isn't used at least 3 times a week. Deduct 1 point for every small electrical appliance that's stored between your hip and eye-level (behind cupboards or out in the open) that's not used regularly.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
7. Out of 10 points, deduct 1 point for every 10% of your counter that's not free. (Example, if nothing is stored on your counters, score 10 points. If 50% of your countertop is regularly filled with objects, score 5 points. If 60% is covered and only 40% free, score 4 points, etc.)
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
8. Out of 10 points, deduct 2 points for every item stored within your work triangle that doesn't relate to food preparation. (Examples: mail, magazines, office supplies, bills, electronics, TVs).
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
9. Out of 10 points, deduct 2 points for every drawer, cupboard, rack or utensil canister that's over-capacity, making items difficult to retrieve or return, or any cupboard that requires you to move some items to get to other items.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
10. Out of 10 points, Deduct another 2 points for every cabinet (or shelf) where you store food, dishes or non-kitchen items together. Deduct 2 points if you've never taken time to plan and organize your fridge.
    TOTAL SCORE: _____
    
    

Add extra points for:

• a knife rack that mounts on the wall (+2 points)
• a hanging pot rack (+3 points)
• a spice rack that mounts on the wall (+2 points)
• at least 4 kitchen drawers (+5 points)
• full-extension drawers (+5 points)
• each drawer with drawer dividers (+ 2 points)
• an under-sink organization system of any kind (+3 points)
• each lazy susan (+3 points)
• a food pantry cabinet (+5 points)
• clip-on lights, under-cabinet lights or other task lighting (+4 points)

Deduct points for:

• less than 11" of knee space depth under a counter or table (-5 points)
• corner sink (-7 points)
• no windows or view outdoors or to another room (-5 points)
• less than 6 linear feet of counter space (-10 points)

How did you score?
85 – 100 points. Congratulations! Unless your kitchen is really too small, you're in good shape.

70 – 85 points. A few small changes will increase your kitchen design's efficiency and comfort.

50-70 points. You probably already know your kitchen design isn't quite right, but may not be sure what to do. Check out our kitchen planning tips for some ideas.

50 points or less. You've got two choices… renovate or eat out more! Or check out our kitchen planning tips to see which organizational changes you could make without renovating.

Fill in the % of time or energy you spend (or would like to spend) on each of the following activities. Make sure the total equals 100%.

____ cooking up a storm for family or friends
____ preparing a quick meal
____ managing party guests in the kitchen
____ keeping track of family or schedules
____ working on projects or the computer

For any activity you allocate more than 40% of your time or energy to, invest time and energy making those activities easy to do. A few tips!

cooking up a storm

• create a work triangle that’s less than 22 feet (your work triangle is the number of feet you walk between the fridge, stove, sink and back to the fridge)
  
• maximize your counter space by keeping countertops clear
• add cooking space with an extra cart or small island, hinged work surface that flips up or down or a cutting board placed over the sink or an open drawer
• use walls and backsplashes to hang pots and utensils; it frees up cabinet space
• locate the dishwasher within 36" of sink
• maximize the space in front of the dishwasher and stove; 42" is ideal, 30" is minimum
• allocate 36"-42" between an island and surroundings counters or table
• use a 30" high counter for kneading and rolling, rather than the standard 36" high counter
  
• store large knives together in a designated drawer, knife block or on a magnetic wall strip
• allocate a minimum of 12" of counter space on either side of each appliance; 15" next to the fridge door
• get others to help cook by creating specific stations, or zones, within the kitchen
  • create a preparation zone with a 30" counter, a marble pastry slab or butcher block cutting surface
  • create a cooking zone with cooking utensils, pots, pans and serving bowls and platters located next to the oven
  • create a clean-up zone with detergents, cleaning supplies, storage for dishes, cutlery, glassware and mugs located next to the sink and dishwasher.
• designate a pantry or extra-large cupboard for food-only storage

preparing a quick meal

• locate the microwave and fridge close together (not more than 7 feet apart)
• create an eating area that’s close to the work triangle; it’s more comfortable than eating over the sink!
• allocate a minimum of 36" of free counter space for food preparations, even in smallest kitchens
• allocate as much counter space as possible next to the fridge
• create a quick-serve coffee bar, with coffee-maker, coffee filters, sugar and mugs

managing party guests in the kitchen

• use an island or table as a divider between your work triangle and your guests
• use a counter or island with a shallow 42" high counter bar around its perimeter; it’s the highest suitable eating surface (for 30" high bar seats) and acts as a wall between you and kitchen guests
• store drinks, wine and cocktails outside the work triangle
• create an appealing eat-in kitchen; if you can’t keep guests out of your kitchen, make it the perfect place to cook and eat!

keeping track of family or schedules

• hang a chalkboard where message can be added quickly
• hang a bulletin board to tack up notes, event tickets, schedules
• hang a blackboard or bulletin board inside an upper cabinet door; it avoids a messy-looking kitchen
• create a workstation or small desk area away from the work triangle
• allocate a drawer for office supplies
• add dividers to a junk drawer
• corral mail and magazines inside a portable carry bin
• add a power bar inside a drawer or cabinet for re-charging portable electronics
• store phone books, menus and cookbooks in the same cabinet.

doing homework or projects

• allocate a drawer or cabinet for crafts or office supplies
• leave a minimum of 12" depth under a counter, table or writing desk for stools and chairs
• use a small counter-height table as an island; tuck stools under one or two sides and you can sit to work, cook, help kids with homework or do them all at the same time!
• suspend task lighting 36"-48" above a table or island
  

1. Islands don't have to be big or built-in; they don't even have to match the rest of the cabinets. A mismatched island adds an eclectic, gourmet quality. Kitchen islands also don't have to be permanent. A small trolley cart or narrow sofa table add storage and working space. Look for carts and tables with a marble, butcher block or stainless steel top.
   
   
2. Small kitchens aren't necessarily a disadvantage. As long as there's enough counter space, a small kitchen is preferred by cooks who like to work alone. They also make efficient work triangles.
   
   
3. Open shelving forces neatness. Glass front cabinets and open shelves motivate us clean up, edit regularly and purge what's not used.
   
   
4. Using walls for storage frees up space in cabinets. Cutting knives, spices, pots and utensils are just as easily stored on racks or narrow shelves as inside cabinets.
   
   
5. Eliminating upper cabinets makes a kitchen look lighter and bigger. Designing kitchens with cabinets below, rather than above counters, leaves room for large windows and half walls that open to other rooms.
   
   
6. A quality countertop is worth every penny. Solid-core counters aren't just pretty to look at; they're also easily fixed and cleaned. If choosing real stone countertop, granite is generally easier to maintain than marble or limestone.
   
   
7. Sinks need a view. A sink under a window or on an island make tasks more pleasant. Avoid corner sinks; even if they look onto windows, they create a congested space.
   
   
8. Drawers are more practical under counters than cabinets. Drawers reduce stooping and back pain and make it easier to see what's inside. Full-extension drawers let us see right to the back of drawers.
   
   
9. Narrow shelves are more functional than deep shelves for most items. Unless storing large platters or appliances, a 12" cabinet depth is more practical than 24".
   
   
10. Tall cabinets create a customized look. Using 42" high (rather than the standard 36" high cabinets) creates a sleek, streamlined look associated with luxury, custom-built kitchens.
    
    
11. Every kitchen needs a place to sit. Adding a place to perch, whether to eat, write or work, makes kitchens more appealing places for cooking and all the other activities that gravitate there!
    
    
12. Stone or tile floors are unforgiving. Hard flooring surfaces are hard on the back, feet and dropped dishes. If you like the look, add a few scatter mats under the sink or in areas where you stand for long periods of time.
    
    
13. See-through chairs and stools make small kitchens look bigger. Light-weight chairs with open-looking designs look smaller and expand the look of space by letting us see more of the kitchen.
    
    
14. The lower the budget, the more important the cabinet style is. If budget doesn't allow for good quality wood cabinets, designers usually opt for simpler Euro or Shaker cupboard designs in white, almond, black or colored finishes rather than simulated wood grains.
    
    
15. Painting cabinets black upgrades inexpensive cabinets the quickest. Black cabinets look sophisticated and stylish; the cabinet's style and quality become less apparent.
    
    
16. Lamps on countertops are practical and warm. They're unexpected, add a soft glow, light the kitchen when you're not in and create a less expensive alternative to under-cabinet lights.
    
    
17. Kids' art looks cluttered on the fridge, but gallery-worthy on the walls. Displaying a collage of kids' art inside simple, inexpensive frames is eye-catching. Choose frames that make changing the artwork easy.
    
    
18. Canisters and trays eliminate counter clutter and add style. Corralling bottles and spices inside long shallow trays, cookies inside canisters or detergents inside glass bottles, reduces clutter and creates attractive displays.
    
    
19. Storing similar things together makes them worthy of display. Collections of cookie jars, jars, utensils or hand-painted ceramics look display-worthy when stored together on a shelf.
    
    
20. Even kitchens are worthy of some dressy touches. Kitchens host as many guests as the living room; choosing attractive materials and styles make this space as inviting and comfortable as other public area in the home.
    

1. Out of 10 points, deduct 1 point for every foot the perimeter (distance between the farthest seats) of your central conversation area is larger than 10 feet.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
2. Out of 10 points, deduct 5 points for any traffic path (walkway to another room) that passes in front of the TV or between two seated people having a conversation.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
3. Out of 10 points, deduct 3 points for every chair, loveseat or sofa that doesn't meet a neighboring chair, loveseat or sofa at a right angle (90 degrees).
   TOTAL SCORE: ______
   
   
4. Out of 10 points, deduct 1 point for every 4” your coffee table sits more than 16” away from the sofa.
   TOTAL SCORE: ______
   
   
5. Out of 10 points, deduct 3 points for each seat without a place to put a drink down (within arm's reach).
   TOTAL SCORE: ______
   
   
6. Out of 10 points, deduct 10 points if you're using a rectangular coffee table with a sofa and loveseat (or two side-by-side chairs). Or deduct 10 points if you're using a square table with a sofa and one chair.
   TOTAL SCORE: ______
   
   
7. Out of 10 points, deduct 5 points if the only source of lighting in your living room is an overhead lighting fixture. Deduct 5 points if you have fewer than two floor or table lamps
   TOTAL SCORE: ______
   
   
8. Out of 10 points, deduct 5 points if any cords behind your TV can be seen. Deduct 2 points if your TV is sitting on a makeshift stand or table that you're still planning to replace. Deduct 3 points if watching TV during the day is difficult due to window glare.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
9. Out of 10 points, deduct 3 points for every seated person that would have to turn their head more than 45 degrees (slightly) to see another seated person or the TV.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
10. Out of 10 points, deduct 10 points if you have more than two focal points (fireplace, TV, large window, large piece of furniture or oversized artwork) on one wall.
    TOTAL SCORE: _____

Score extra points for…

• a coffee table with drawers or a shelf (+5 points)
• nesting tables (+5 points)
• an area rug or carpet under the seating area (+5 points)

Deduct extra points for:

• TV cabinet doors that don't fold back completely (-7 points)

How did you score?
85 – 100 points. Congratulations! Your living room design is likely a magnet for family and friends.

70 – 85 points. A few changes would increase your living room design's efficiency and comfort.

50-70 points. You probably already know your living room design isn't quite right, but may not be sure what to do. Check out our living room planning tips for some advice.

50 points or less. You probably gravitate to other rooms sooner than your living room. Check out our living room planning tips, or consider hiring an interior designer.

Fill in the % of time or energy you spend (or would like to spend) on each of the following activities. Make sure the total equals 100%.

___ visiting with people and/or pets
___ watching movies or sports on TV
___ hosting the perfect party
___ eating or snacking
___ reading or working
___ playing games or working out

For any activity you allocate more than 40% of your time or energy to, invest time and energy making those activities easy to do. A few tips!

visiting with people and pets

• create a U-shaped seating cluster (seating on three sides of an invisible square); it encourages conversation and closeness, and leaves one side open for a fireplace or TV
• create a square-shaped seating cluster (seating on all four sides of an invisible square); it's ideal for conversation-only rooms, creates intimacy and puts the focus on people rather than external distractions.
• use a fireplace, area rug, coffee table or the seating group itself as the focal point rather than the TV, large furniture, artwork or windows
• choose leather or heavy fabrics that resist stains, pet claws and wear
• choose patterned or textured fabrics
• if buying new seating, choose fabric colors that match (camouflage) your pet's hair
• avoid wicker, looped carpets and polished woods if you have pets with claws
• use a storage ottoman as a toy box; it cleans up messy rooms quickly!
• use a large upholstered ottoman instead of a coffee table for a more casual ambiance
• if space allows, add a table and chairs for games, puzzles or projects

watching movies or sports events on TV

• create an I-shaped seating cluster (seating mostly on one-side of the room); it's ideal for watching TV because all seats have optimal viewing angles
• choose a higher-back sofa; it's comfortable to sit in for long periods, feels protective in the dark and simulates movie theater seats
• consider a home theater sectional or sofa with pop-up footrests, reclining mechanisms and cup holders
• use a large upholstered ottoman instead of a coffee table; you can put your feet up
• position the TV so it can be seen from the kitchen or dining room
• place the TV on a wall adjoining a window wall, rather than across from, or on the same wall as the window
• position every seat so it can see the TV, or use lightweight chairs that can be easily angled
• keep blankets & pillows close by
• install a dimmer switch to tone down overhead lighting
• add flexible, low-level lighting
• paint or wallpaper walls in mid to dark tones
• use reds, purples and blue colors for wall; they absorb the most light and darken rooms naturally

hosting the perfect party

• create a square-shaped seating cluster (seating on all four sides of an invisible square); it encourages conversation; removes distractions and puts the focus on people rather than external distractions.
• play down any single focal point; focus attention on the seating area itself
• make sure every seated person has a place to put a drink down (within arm's reach)
• include plenty of small tables, including folding trays or nesting tables that can be moved around
• add a permanent bar, wine cabinet or drink cart
• use sofas and chairs rather than a loveseat
• use lightweight chairs that can be moved easily
• use accent lighting and floor lamps to add dramatic, lower-level lighting
• create private conversation areas for two, away from the central seating area
• add a small table and chairs; it's ideal for a game of cards or private conversations
• consider a glass-top or marble-top coffee table – they're easiest to clean

eating or snacking

• make sure every seated person has a place to put a drink down, (within arm's reach)
• position the coffee table within 16” of sofa and chairs
• invest in a set of nesting tables instead of an end table– they're easy to move around, handy and usually look better than folding tray tables
• use stain-resistant fabrics, including leather, microfibers and patterned fabrics
• invest in a coffee table with drawers or a shelf; it let you store coasters, napkins, moist wipes, candles or bar supplies next to where they're used
• consider using a glass-top or marble-top table; they're easiest to clean
• add a permanent bar, wine bar or drink cart

reading or working

• create an I-shaped seating cluster (eating mostly on one side of an invisible square); it's ideal for focusing on a single focal point, where less social interaction is needed.
• create an L-shaped seating cluster (with seating on two sides of an invisible square); it's ideal for fewer people, feels enclosed and private, and leaves two walls free for a TV, quiet fireplace or window.
• create a quiet focal point directly across from the sofa (fireplace, tall bookcase, armoire or picture window)
• place a small writing desk or sofa table along a wall or behind the sofa
• build in a wall of bookcases to create your own private library
• use sofas and chairs rather than a sectional; it's easier to position reading lamps
• use lamps with high wattage capacity for close-up work or reading
• paint walls and ceilings in off-whites and light tints to reflect maximum light

playing games or working out

• use an I-shaped or L-shaped seating cluster; both leave room for equipment and open views to the TV
• use a coffee table on casters so it can be moved out of the way
• avoid glass-top tables
• choose tables and furniture with rounded or padded edges
• choose leather, heavy-weight, patterned and textured fabrics
  

1. Tight seating arrangements create better conversations. Seating that's clustered into a conversation grouping (rather than spread evenly around the room) feels close and intimate, makes it easier to hear each other and guides placement of accessories.
   
   
2. Empty wall space draws attention to important things, and away from unimportant things. Accessories look best placed above, below or beside sofas, chairs, tables and mantels. It's better to leave the space between them empty.
   
   
3. A good-quality, basic sofa is the best investment you can make. Sofas with scrolled arms and dramatic shapes are pretty to look at, but they can lock a room into a specific style, that over the years becomes tiresome. A basic, straightforward sofa that can be reinvented with accents is timeless, classic and versatile.
   
   
4. A sectional creates a room within a room; its strong edges and closed corners act like a wall; adding structure to open floor plans and focusing activities.
   
   
5. Large, bulky sofas belong in a casual, family room. Bulky reclining sofas are comfortable and perfect for hours of TV watching, but if they're too high-backed or puffy, they'll take over your living room's space and style.
   
   
6. A large, upholstered ottoman is a handy alternative to coffee tables. It lets you put your feet up, and a simple tray on top can hold cups, magazines or books.
   
   
7. Throws (or stylish blankets) are a must-have accessory! Folded over the back of a chair or sofa, or stacked under a coffee table, they're perfect for movie nights, saving on heating bills or adding texture, pattern or color.
   
   
8. Storing a TV inside an armoire keeps the peace between avid TV fans and style mavens who don't want the TV to be the center of attention.
   
   
9. Busy patterns energize us; quiet patterns relax us. Keep busy patterns on small items such as toss pillows, accent chairs, ottomans or other accents, unless you're after a high-energy living room.
   
   
10. Just because toss pillows came with the sofa doesn't mean you're stuck with them. There's no faster or more affordable way to customize and personalize your living room than adding your own toss pillows or alternating them in the summer and winter.
    
    
11. Color contrasts are as important as color hues. Extreme light and dark color contrasts feel cool and modern. If you're after a traditional interior, reduce the variation, or extremes, between the lightest and darkest colors you choose.
    
    
12. An accent color needs to be repeated throughout the room. Vary your chosen accent color(s) on a variety of items, Vary it in lighter and darker shades, or pair it with neighboring hues on the color wheel.
    
    
13. A coffee table with storage is one of the best things ever invented. Storage drawers or shelves inside a table hide clutter, locate the remote control and keep favorite things handy.
    
    
14. Buy a sofa table! Placing a sofa table behind the sofa creates the perfect position for a reading lamp. Tucking a chair or stool under a sofa table lets you work and watch TV. Sofa tables can also create a focal point, with a mirror, picture or lamps above.
    
    
15. Matching living room furniture looks best in a modern living room. Non-contemporary living rooms look better with a variety of furnishings, including chairs that don't match the sofa and a settee instead of a loveseat.
    
    
16. A seasonal decorating change is as good as a rest. Switch out heavy toss pillows to lighter ones in the spring, Use your mantel, sofa table or coffee table to add seasonal wreaths, candles or fresh flowers.
    
    
17. A small table and chairs works wonders in a living room... you can have dinner next to the TV, play card games, spread out the newspaper, finish a project or work at a computer.
    
    
18. A drawer chest doesn't just belong in the bedroom. These compact pieces are ideal in a living room; the drawers are handy for storing games, magazines, party supplies, blankets, DVDs and CDs.
    
    
19. A collection of thick, tall pillar candles dress up the inside of a non-working fireplace. Mirror the inside back of the fireplace if you want to double the light.
    
    
20. Curtains don't have to be heavy or fancy, but they do need to be tall. Floor-to-ceiling curtains make living rooms look relaxed and luxurious.

1. Out of 10 points, deduct 5 points if your closet rod has less than 5 linear of feet per person using it. Deduct another 5 points if you have sliding closet doors and only one half of your closet's contents can be seen at one time.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
2. Out of 10 points, deduct 4 points if your clothing rod is hung at one standard height. Deduct another 3 points if the shelf above your closet rod isn't sectioned off, or if you're not using bins to store items on the shelf. Deduct another 3 points if you store your shoes on the floor.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
3. Out of 10 points, deduct 10 points if you have less than 4” of open space on your closet rod when you move all your hanging clothes to one side. Deduct 6 points if you have 6” of space; deduct 3 points if you have 9”.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
4. Out of 10 points, deduct 3 points for every inch your bed is less than 16” or more than 26” above the floor.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
5. Out of 10 points, deduct 5 points if you pack or unpack your suitcase on the floor. Deduct 10 points if you pack or unpack your suitcase on the bed.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
6. Out of 10 points, deduct 5 points if your bed (night stands not included) isn't situated in front of a flat span of windowless wall. Deduct 5 points if your bedroom door is directly in front of, behind or beside your bed.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
7. Out of 10 points, deduct 2 points for every drawer that's broken, doesn't close completely or is difficult to close. Deduct 2 points for every deep drawer that's wider than 24”, or shallow drawer that's wider than 12”, that don't have drawer dividers.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
8. Out of 10 points, deduct 2 points for each drawer that stores clothing, jewelry/accessories or toiletries together.
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
9. Out of 10 points, deduct 3 points if you don't have a minimum of 24” walking space on three sides of your bed. Deduct another 3 points if one side of your bed is placed against a wall. Deduct 2 points if you don't have a night stand or table on one side of the bed. Deduct 2 points if you don't have a night stand or table on the other side of the bed too (if the bed is larger than a twin size).
   TOTAL SCORE: _____
   
   
10. Out of 10 points, deduct 5 points if you can't completely darken your room at night. Deduct another 1 point each for every LED or clock light that stays on or uncovered at night.
    TOTAL SCORE: _____

• hooks on the wall (+5 points)
• small shoe cubbies or bins (+5 points)
• wall-to-wall carpet (+5 points)
• area rugs next to the bed if non-carpeted floors (+ 5 points)
• full-length mirror (+5 points)
• wood or acrylic closet hangers with clips and pant rods (+5 points)
• a chair, bench or rocker (+3 points)

Deduct extra points for:

• a bed that's angled (-2 points)
• exercise equipment (-5 points)
• exercise equipment that's not used (-10 points)
• any cords you can see (-5 points)
• storing anything on the floor (-5 points)

How did you score?
85 – 100 points. Congratulations! You probably have a hard time leaving your bedroom.

70 – 85 points. A few small changes would increase your bedroom design's efficiency and comfort.

50-70 points. You probably already know your bedroom design isn't quite right, but may not be sure what to do. Check out our bedroom planning tips for some ideas.

50 points or less. You probably gravitate to other rooms sooner than your bedroom! Check out our bedroom planning tips, or consider hiring an interior designer.

Fill in the % of time or energy you spend (or would like to spend) on each of the following activities. Make sure the total equals 100%.

_____ getting a good night's rest
_____ looking good when I go out
_____ studying or working
_____ reading or watching TV
_____ working out

For any activity you allocate more than 40% of your time or energy to, invest time and energy making those activities easy to do. A few tips!

getting a good night's rest

• allocate at least two pillows per person on the bed
• don't skimp on cheap pillows – get the kind of pillow that supports your neck and puts you to sleep!
• layer your bed linens so you can add or remove them at night
• keep an extra blanket on top of the bed for a quick nap during the day
• choose dark blinds or drapes that eliminate any incoming light; test your window coverings during the day – if they darken the room during the day, they'll darken it completely at night
• cover, or turn off any LED lights (from clock radios, TVs, electronics, smoke detectors, etc.) at night
• replace your mattress if it's 10 years old; mattresses lose their support over the years, accumulate dust mites and don't take advantage of improved comfort technologies
• buy the biggest mattress you can fit in your room, making sure to leave 24"-36" of walking space on the sides and end
• if you can't replace your mattress, add a layer of memory foam on top of the existing one
• choose a bed that's 6" longer than the tallest person using it
• turn down the thermostat down at night; we sleep better at cooler temperatures

looking good when I go out

• locate dressers and drawer chests close to the closet
• hang a full-length mirror inside a closet or bedroom door, or lean a framed floor mirror against an open wall
• add snag-free drawer dividers to extra-large drawers and shelves, or to shallow drawers that store ties, socks, lingerie, jewelry or toiletries
• replace a portion of your standard-height closet rod with a higher rod for shirts and a lower rod for skirts and pants
• create a system for hanging clothing; arrange by color (whites to darks) or by category (shirts, suits, dresses)
• install a power bar inside a dresser drawer that stores a hair dryer, curling iron and other small personal appliances. Make sure there's a mirror nearby (and the drawer is ventilated).
• place a bench at the end of your bed or against a wall; it's a good place to pack a suitcase, put on shoes, fold laundry or store an extra blanket
• use a jewelry armoire or lingerie chest to also store belts, scarves or accessories
• add knobs on the side of a dresser, drawer chest or wall to hang belts, scarves and jewelry

studying or working

• add a small writing desk or narrow sofa table against the wall or the end of the bed with a chair or bench
• use a small writing desk or table instead of a night stand
• wire your night stand with a power bar inside a drawer, or buy a pre-wired nightstand; it eliminates crawling under the bed to reach an outlet
• use a lap-top tray if you work in bed (keep in mind most sleep experts warn against working in bed!)
• use a shallow bin to corral paper, magazines and books; you can slide it under the bed or night stand
• use a bedside lamp that takes a high-wattage bulb

reading or watching TV

• add a reading chair in the corner of the room next to a floor or table lamp
• use a swing-arm or clip-on lamp above your bed for the best reading light
• buy bed-side lamps with two bulbs; one a high wattage bulb for reading; the other a low wattage bulb for TV watching
• install a dimmer switch on an overhead light
• choose a bedside lamp with a shade that begins about 18" above the top of the mattress
• working out
• keep a stack of small hand towels and fresh water inside a nearby drawer or on a shelf
• choose compact furniture that maximizes exercise space, including tall drawer chests rather than dressers
• keep exercise equipment small so it doesn't become the focal point of the room

• keep a stack of small hand towels and fresh water inside a nearby drawer or on a shelf
• choose compact furniture that maximizes exercise space, including tall drawer chests rather than dressers
• keep exercise equipment small so it doesn't become the focal point of the room

1. The bed is always the focal point of the bedroom. Like it or not, the bed steals the show and merits the most attention to style, linens, colors, accessories and a look of comfort.
   
   
2. A sloped headboard is more comfortable than a straight one, especially if you like to read or watch TV in bed.
   
   
3. A platform or chaise bed is easiest to make. A bed without a skirt looks ‘made' more quickly; it's as simple as straightening out the duvet. Sheets are also easier to change.
   
   
4. A metal bed makes a bedroom look bigger. The narrow, see-through panels look lightweight and take up less space than most wood beds.
   
   
5. Bedroom furniture can easily look too big for the room. Bedrooms are covered with more furniture per square inch than any other room; furniture needs to be proportionate to its size. If your room is 120 square feet or less, use smaller-scaled furnishings with thinner, leaner details or fewer pieces. If it's more than 175 square feet, bring on the king-sized bed and extra pieces. Lower ceilings also look best with lower furniture, high ceilings with higher furniture and tall bed posts.
   
   
6. A panel of drapes behind the bed or headboard feels luxurious and hotel-like. Hang tall panels of drapes right from the ceiling behind the headboard (or headboard or night stands) even if there's no window.
   
   
7. A bench is awfully handy. Placed at the foot of the bed, or against a wall, a bench is perfect place to pack a suitcase, put on shoes, stack laundry or store an extra blanket. Choose one between 12" and 21" deep.
   
   
8. Heavy drapes, carpet and upholstered headboards dampen noise. The heavier the fabric or pile, the more airborne noise they'll eliminate.
   
   
9. Drapes can camouflages ugly window proportions. Many bedroom windows are too small, in the wrong place or too high off the floor. Using drapes the same color as the wall or running them right to the floor obscures the shape of the window behind.
   
   
10. Hooks are the most under-utilized storage device. Use a coat tree or peg rail to hang robes, dry cleaning, items to pack, handbags, belts, scarves or just about anything.
    
    
11. A simple chair in the bedroom creates a hotel-like quality. An armchair or chaise longue next to a lamp or table creates a quiet place to relax.
    
    
12. Replacing an overhead light fixture with a fan or spotlights adds style and comfort. Overhead lighting in a bedroom is usually bland and much less interesting than spotlights… and much less practical than a fan. If opting for a fan, choose a good quality, quiet, unique or streamlined style without extra ornament.
    
    
13. Under-bed storage is under-utilized. Storage capacity under beds is equal to the capacity inside most dressers. Shallow covered storage bins that slide under your bed can store shoes, off-season clothes, extra blankets or sheets, wrapping paper or sports equipment.
    
    
14. Full-length mirrors make elegant accents. Leaning a tall, framed floor mirror against an open wall adds opulence, reflects light and enlarges the look of your bedroom
    
    
15. A writing desk in a bedroom creates hotel-like convenience. It also doesn't have to be big. Writing desks can be narrow, double as a desk or vanity, or replace a night stand on one side of the bed.
    
    
16. A drawer chest is more space-efficient than a dresser. Chests take up less floor space, making them a better choice in small bedrooms.
    
    
17. A dresser makes a good TV stand. If you can't hang a flat-screen TV on the wall, place it over top of a dresser; the proportions are compatible and the viewing height ideal for watching TV from bed.
    
    
18. The TV doesn't have to be the focus of a bedroom. A tall armoire or chest of drawers with doors that fold back can conceal it completely.
    
    
19. Carpet in the bedroom makes it easier to get out of bed. A plush carpet or area rug next to the bed and in walking areas is more comfortable than hard, cold floors, especially in the morning.
    
    
20. Blankets and throws aren't just handy; they're nice to look at. With their color, texture and look of luxury, throws and blankets warm up our rooms as much as they warm us.
    

1. Know your style. If you just buy whatever you like, the combinations may or may not work in your home. Avoid getting too eclectic or mismatched by deciding on your personal style, or mix of styles, then sticking with it. If you're not sure about your style, take our free Environmental Personality Profile, or check out our RoomSearch library to see an overview of popular furniture styles.
   
   
2. Know the size of your room, including the hallways and doorways leading into it. Way too much furniture comes back to furniture warehouses because it didn't make it through the door! And even if it did, nothing makes a room look smaller than furniture that eats up all the space. Compare the dimension of your room to the dimension of the furniture and make sure there's still plenty of walking space. Measure furniture from end to end, and if your room is small, avoid furniture that takes up more space than it needs to. Flared-out roll-arm sofas and sleigh beds are chief culprits.
   

1. Stand in front of a chest of drawers and trying moving it from side to side? Does it feel wobbly or sway a little? Do the same to a bed or the corner of a sofa. Well-made furniture doesn't sway, or rack, as they say in furniture land.
   
   
2. Check that each large drawer has a drawer stop that keeps the drawer from pulling right out. Avoid flimsy plastic drawer stops attached to the back of cheaper drawers; they don't always stop the drawer and often break off. Instead look for drawer stops that are integrated into the drawer construction itself.
   
   
3. Check how drawers join at the corners. Interlocking joins are better than straight joins; English or French dovetails joins are the best.
   
   
4. Drawers should move easily on their glides and fit back perfectly into the frame. Check for even spacing between each of the drawers and the frame. Also, pull out a drawer and see if it stays true (centered) to its drawer glide.
   
   
5. Make sure mirrors don't distort your image. Look at yourself in the mirror… first standing close up, then standing as far back as you can.
   
   
6. Pull out several drawers in a drawer chest at the same time. Make sure it doesn't topple over when you do. This is especially important when choosing kids furniture, or when furniture will store heavy items.
   
   
7. Find out what the furniture is made of. Check the manufacturer's product specifications. Solid wood isn't affordable for most of us and not easy to find. But it also isn't necessary. A combination of veneer panels and solid wood molding is a good choice too, and tends to warp less than solid wood. Remember that heavy furniture doesn't indicate quality. It may indicate the opposite. Particleboard and fiberboards are heavier than solid wood.
   
   
8. Feel under the bottom of sofa and drawers for corner blocks – a triangular piece that attaches a drawer's sides, front and back. Corner blocks keep the drawer shape intact and reduce warping and damage.
   
   
9. Feel how much padding there is between fabric-and-frame on a sofa, chair or headboard. If you can feel the wood frame under the fabric, these areas will wear more quickly and be less comfortable to lean against.
   
   
10. Check how the back of a cabinet is finished. The best furniture is finished, front and back, with a finished wood panel. If an inexpensive piece of fiberboard is stapled on, it indicates a lower quality factory or product.
    

Here's why some furniture qualifies for the words fine furniture, along with a higher price…

1. Careful tailoring. Extra top stitching, hand-stitching, hand-carving, poker-straight seams, complex veneer inlays and mixed materials mean more labor went into the piece.
   
   
2. More materials. Features such as self decking (when a sofa's fabric covers the entire frame, even under the cushions), higher sides inside a drawer and a finished back on drawer chests (when the material used on the front is the same material used on the front) mean more materials were required.
   
   
3. More expensive materials. Solid wood rather than wood veneer, expensive fabrics, rare materials cost
   more. No surprise there.
   
   
4. Fewer seams. Leather sofas or wood frames without seams mean that a single piece of wood or fabric was required. For the manufacturer, that meant finding a large, unblemished piece of wood or leather and not being able to cut around blemishes or utilize remnants.
   
   
5. No blemishes. Knot-free wood and blemish-free leather are more expensive and more difficult to acquire.
   
   
6. Dovetailing. Every drawer chest features many joins – places where two pieces come together at a 90-degree angle. The stronger these joins, the more structurally sound the piece. Interlocking joins such as English and French dovetails are more labor intensive, but the best money can buy.
   
   
7. Dust-proofing. This high-end feature means that each drawer sits in its own case, or features a wood panel separating each drawer. It reduces the dust and dirt that can accumulate and ensuring items from one drawer can't fall into the drawer below.
   
   
8. Reinforcements. Extra sturdy construction such as five-sided drawers (when the front panel of a drawer is attached to an interior front drawer panel), extra legs or rails and extra pieces of structural wood add cost, but reduce damage and wear, especially when furniture is moved a lot.
   
   
9. Designer names. Just like in fashion, getting a designer to put their name on a furniture collection, or to design the furniture themselves, costs money. Often a lot.
   
   
10. Brand name. A brand name usually indicates a company has been, and will be around for awhile. It also usually indicates a certain quality standard. Branded companies usually invest more in research, product development and advertising, raising the price of their furniture.
    

• Sofa patterns, especially stripes, should match (continue uninterrupted) from top to bottom, and from side to front and back.
  
  
• Wood grain variations are a natural part of wood furniture, but wood colors should match between panels (drawers, door, panels and frame).
  
  
• Avoid large or loose fabric weaves (also wicker and rattan) if you have cats with claws.
  
  
• If you've got big or tall friends… or you like to lean or sit on furniture that's not intended to be leaned or sat on, buy hearty furniture to match; forget the thin or pretty pieces.
  
  
• If you're worried about furniture wear and tear, buy furniture with a pre-distressed finish (pine, white-washed, etc). Future wear will be less noticeable.
  
  
• If you don't like fingerprints, stick with matte, rather than glossy or polished, finishes.
  
  
• If you don't clean regularly, choose patterned or textured fabrics… and avoid extremely light or dark solid colors.
  
  
• Be wary of new trends. What's to-die-for right now may be yesterday's news in two years. If the furniture isn't comfortable and timeless, be careful how much you invest.
  
  
• Keep furniture in scale with your room. If your room is small, avoid flared-arm sofas, sleigh beds and over-scaled drawer chests. They'll overpower the room and look cramped. Choose furniture that looks lightweight… with tall legs, narrow arms or with see-through features.
  
  
• Remember that accessories make the room. If you bought new furniture based on a beautiful store or catalog display, it won't look the same at home unless you invest in the accessories you saw with it… or something similar.
  
  

• Is your space tight? Look for smart storage features – underbed storage, a storage bench or ottoman, or tables with drawers or shelves. Look inside drawers to see how high the sides are. Some manufacturers save money by making the inside drawer sides shorter than the front, decreasing their storage capacity.
  
  
• Do you need to get organized? Look for drawers that section off areas for different types of storage solutions. Or add your own hooks or drawer dividers. Choose drawer chests with differently sized drawers so you have more flexibility for small and large items. Also check how far you can pull the drawer out – most drawers pull out about two thirds of the way. That's fine for larger items, but frustrating when you can't get to the back of the drawer to retrieve small items.
  
  
• Do you work in your bedroom or in bed? Make sure your night stand is big enough to hold a good reading lamp. Or look for a headboard where you can clip on a small reading light. You can also swap out a night stand for a small writing desk. Also look for night stands with electrical power bars and phone jacks wired in.
  
  
• Do you have trouble sleeping? The past decade has seen major advances in sleep technology; including new memory foam and latex products that most agree has improved quality of sleep. Also, when buying a mattress, don't let a sales associate rush your decision. Ask to be left alone for 15 minutes or more, and really sprawl out, simulating the same position you sleep in at night and letting your body completely relax. Wear pants when shopping for a mattress and bring a shawl or small blanket so you're comfortable.
  
  

• First, find out what your personal style is. If you're not sure, take our free Environmental Personality Profile. Your personal preferences will help determine which home furniture styles are right for you.
  
  
• Second, browse our RoomSearch library to find room sets and home furniture styles you like. The furniture supplier is included with most photos, along with a link to their web site for more information.
  
  
• Finally, browse our RoomCues™ to find a room design you love. Each RoomCue can be cross-referenced to which of our Environmental Personality Profiles (EPProfiles™) you are… and will help you pull together the paint colors, furniture and accents that make your room design work.

1. Choose colors that are slightly dulled down (with some gray in them) rather than very clear colors (with little or no gray in them); they're easier to work with … and live with! It's helpful to know that many of the interior paint colors at your local paint store aren't good color choices for walls! Most look great in the paint rack and offer you all sorts of options, but are too bright, spicy or sugary for large areas. In fact, most room color problems aren't the result of choosing a color that's too light or dark, but of choosing a color that's too bright. Unless choosing paint colors for a child's room, playroom or other high-energy space, opt for quieter (i.e. duller) colors.
   
   
2. Never look at a paint color chip by itself. No color exists alone! It gets surrounded by a lot of other colors in a room … from furniture, wood and metal finishes to curtains, artwork and accents. Your chosen color may look very different in the company of other colors. It's helpful to create a small story board for your room, like designers do, where all fabric and color swatches can be seen together, the way they will be in your room.
   
   
3. Always view paint colors in the direction they'll be used. Color paint chips look different when viewed on a table (horizontally) versus pinned up on the wall (vertically). If choosing a wall paint color, ALWAYS look at the paint color chip vertically – the way your paint color will be seen. Also, view it morning, noon and night; the time of day can bring out dramatically different undertones in a color.

To see great color combination used together, check out our RoomSearch library. Or, to learn more about color compatibility and make color choosing easier, download our RoomColors system.

1. Which hues you like (ex. blue, green, brown, etc.)
   
   
2. What type of hues you like (ex. bright, organic, rich, etc.). Every hue has many variations and different shades of the same hue will create vastly different physical and emotional responses.

Tracking your own personal color favorites can be as simple as looking at what you already own (artwork, clothing, linens, furniture, etc.). Even more importantly, track what you use most often (which clothing gets worn, which dishes get used, and which artwork gets hung up rather than stored away)! Collect room photos you see that stop you in your tracks… then take notice which color schemes they use.

Also, remember that no color is an island. Good color choices are about good color combinations and the best color schemes involve much more than any single color. Good color choices are also about the type of colors that were combined…or the color family chosen to create specific emotional and physical effects.

To find out which color families you like, or to find out more about your personal color style, take our Environmental Personality Profile quiz. For room inspiration ideas, look through our RoomSearch photo library. To learn more about color psychology, popular paint colors for interiors and compatible color combinations, download our RoomColors: Professional system.

Now the flip side. Here's the problem with using brighter paint colors. As it turns out, our homes are different than our clothes. Fuchsia is a great color for a sweater; on four walls not so much. Sadly, the color-courageous among us too often choose colors that are just too bright for home. Strong colors need to be chosen carefully. That means passing on most of the paint colors at the store, and finding the paint colors that add color, but don't overwhelm.

For help choosing interior paint colors that work in the home, check out our RoomSearch library for inspiration. Or download our RoomColors: Professional system: this system reveals which paint colors professional interior designers use most, which colors look good with specific furniture styles and which colors create specific moods.

A couple of tips….

1. Make sure the colors you use together are from the same color family. Color families are made up of colors that share a similar dullness or clarity. That means that no two colors clash if they're from the same family, including colors we don't think go together! For example, poppy (red) works well with tangerine (orange) because both share a cool, modern quality. But poppy (red) doesn't work as well with copper (orange) because, while poppy is cool and modern, copper is aged-looking and traditional.
   
   
2. Reduce the contrast between light and dark colors in a room. Unless you want a modern or chic room that uses very light and very dark colors for dramatic effect, keep your color choices within a smaller range of color values. You still need some contrast between light and dark colors, but avoid too broad a range to avoid a choppy-looking room.

To see professionally designed room designs, along with paint color names used in them, check out our RoomSearch library. To learn more about compatible color families, download our RoomColors system.

Beethoven didn't come up with the 1812 Overture by dwelling on the key or time signature. In the same way, you don't need to worry about color theory until you first determine what you like. Then you can look into why it works.

For a simple, practical view of color theory and how to make it work for you, download our RoomColors, Professional system.

• First, find out what your personal style is. If you're not sure, take our free Environmental Personality Profile. Your personal preferences will help determine which room colors are right for you.
  
  
• Second, browse our RoomSearch library to find room sets you like. The wall color name is included with each photo. If you want to find out the paint color number, download our RoomColors system.
  
  
• Finally, browse our RoomCues™ to find your favorite room design. Each RoomCue can be cross-referenced to which of our Environmental Personality Profiles (EPProfiles™) you are… and will help you pull together the paint colors, furniture and accents that make your room design work. Paint reference numbers are included with each Room Cue™.